The Truth About Leith Edinburgh: Is It Worth Visiting?

When you research what to do in Edinburgh, you might come across Leith as a hidden gem or rather a must-visit in Edinburgh.

Leith is known for its art and food culture today, but the truth is that it’s a neighbourhood under development. This means that it’s still a very much up and coming part of town. 

So the question is, is Leith worth visiting during your time in Edinburgh? There are some points of interest to see, but I’d only recommend going if you have some extra time in Edinburgh.

Leith is surprisingly big, so I’ll give you the low-down on what’s worth visiting, and what’s not, along with some alternatives. I’ll go over exactly what there is to do in Leith and try to give you realistic expectations for your visit.

And if you’re looking for some real hidden gems in Edinburgh, check out some of my favourites!

Psst! This blog post contains affiliate links in it which sends me a bit of extra money if you use them… at no extra cost to you!

Quick Disclaimer… My Opinion From My Experience…

Before getting into whether or not Leith is worth visiting, keep in mind these are my opinions, from my time in Edinburgh.

Leith might be exactly what you’re looking for in Edinburgh, but I was disappointed with it and just wanted to share a different perspective.

I was ultimately confused after having read several articles hyping up a visit to Leith in Edinburgh. So I just wanted to tamper expectations and share exactly what is worth visiting in Leith and what isn’t.

A Very Brief History Of Leith Scotland Over The Years

Leith is a neighbourhood North of Edinburgh city centre.

Back in the day, Leith was a very important and lively neighbourhood because it was Edinburgh’s port, and where sailors came in from the North Sea to trade. (P.S. You can find out more about Leith on this Viator walking tour.)

In fact, until the 1920s, Leith was a separate town from Edinburgh it was doing so well!

But as boats became obsolete… so did Leith.

So as Scotland no longer needed the port, the neighbourhood started to go downhill, now known as the the dodgy and rough part of Edinburgh.

Today, many young professionals are moving North of Edinburgh to Leith Scotland and changing this once dodgy neighbourhood for the better. In fact Leith is now described as being “Edinburgh’s Coolest Neighbourhood“.

So although the neighbourhood still might not look like all that much today, it’s nonetheless impressive how it’s bouncing back from its sketchier past.

Why Visit Leith Scotland?

As I said, in the last 10 years Leith Edinburgh has gone through an incredible amount of change. Today there are actually many points of interest around Leith Edinburgh that you may want to visit.

You might be drawn to Leith for one of the many art galleries, or dining scene along the Shore. In fact, you can find the highest concentration of Michelin star restaurants in Scotland here, there are 4!).

It’s also now known as the permanent home to the Royal Yacht Britannia, and known for the Water of Leith Walkway, and the Leith Walk.

But is it all worth visiting, and what should you expect?

Is Leith Worth Visiting? Only If…

I ended up going back to Leith twice because the first time was at night and I was quite disappointed by it.

So I made a point to go back during the day to see if it was any better… and it really wasn’t. But! That doesn’t mean that Leith isn’t worth visiting at all…

There are some good parts to Leith, and some not so good parts that should be avoided.

You should only visit Leith under these specific circumstances…

You Have A LOT of Time In Edinburgh

Leith is by no means a main attraction in Edinburgh that you absolutely need to do.

If you’re only in Edinburgh for a few days, Leith is not worth visiting.

You should only ever add Leith to your Edinburgh itinerary if you have a few extra days and have absolutely nothing else to do in Edinburgh (which seems kind of unlikely!).

You Set Appropriate Expectations For Your Visit

I’m sure that after reading some of the reviews, your expectations will be pretty high for visiting (I know mine were!).

I legit almost booked an apartment in Leith for an entire month!

It’s not that these articles are totally wrong, but as much has Leith has changed over the years, it still has a LONG way to go!

Leith is in no way a beautiful part of Edinburgh. Remember, it was a port city and was never the wealthy part… So tamper your expectations to expect to see a lot of constructions, run down buildings, graffiti, and ultimately sketchy areas to walk by.

I was also disappointed with the things to do in Leith that were so highly regarded (like the Shore and the Royal Yacht Britannia, but more about that in a bit…)

Try To Visit On A Saturday

Part of why I was so unimpressed with Leith is that it was really oddly deserted…

Of course, Leith isn’t a main touristy part of town (which is why so many people recommend it), but I do enjoy when there are at least some other people around.

So I recommend, if you can, try to visit on a Saturday when they host the Leith Market. Markets in Edinburgh are amazing, so although I haven’t been to this specific one, I’m sure it will not disappoint.

Plus, even if you don’t enjoy the market itself, at least it will bring more liveliness and people to the area.

What To Do In Leith Edinburgh…

Leith has a few main attractions the bring both tourists and locals to the neighbourhood.

Visit The Royal Yacht Britannia

The Royal Yacht Britannia is Leith’s pride and joy; it’s docked in the old port to entice tourists to wander on board. 

This is the former Royal Yacht that served Queen Elizabeth II from 1954 until 1997. It was also used for the royal family honeymoons (like prince Charles and Princess Diana sailed through the Mediterranean on it!). 

The Britannia was also the last royal yacht ever made.

When you’re on board the Britannia you’ll get to see the royal rooms and you can even have afternoon tea like royal-tea!

The Truth About Visiting The Yacht Britannia

To go onboard the Royal Yacht Britannia will have to pay a heft price (in 2019 it was £17, it’s only gone up from there!). Your ticket only gives you is access to the boat with an audio guide.

Unfortunately, there’s no other way to get on board… Even if you want to have afternoon tea, you have to first pay to get on the boat, and then pay for however much else royal tea costs!

But the worst part about the yacht is where it’s docked. The yacht is about a 15-20 minute walk from the neighbourhood centre (around the Shore).

The walk there is also nowhere near the nicest, or safest feeling. You’re walking by warehouses and construction sites, until you finally end up at the Ocean Terminal Mall.

Then the yacht itself is hidden behind the giant mall, so you have to walk through the mall just to get onboard. It all feels very inauthentic…

So if you’re only interested in admiring the outside, don’t bother making your way down to the port… it doesn’t exist!

The only way to see The Royal Yacht Britannia is from the Ocean Terminal parking lot, or the mall’s food court… some Royal Yacht this is!

Instead Of The Royal Yacht Britannia, Visit The Fingal

Once you’re in the area, take advantage of the more local activities the mall has to offer. You can go shopping, see a movie, or even go rollerblading on their indoor roller rink!

Otherwise, I recommend seeing The Fingal instead. The Fingal is the little sister of the Royal Yacht Britannia, in a much more accessible location.

You can see a smaller version of the Royal Yacht without having to travel that far from the Shore. It isn’t exactly in a pretty area either, the boat is looking out onto warehouses and docks – but at least you can see it!

You can’t just walk on, you’ll have to book an experience, either enjoy a cocktail on board, afternoon tea, dinner, or even stay the night! At least you can spend some time enjoying being on a boat.

And if you’re looking for some connection to the Queen, she’s even apparently stayed on The Fingal.

Visit The Shore The Famous Food Scene

The Shore is Leith’s one-stop destination for food. If you’re a food lover, you absolutely need to come here.

Along this block (and a half) you’ll find restaurant after restaurant. Each one is equally as good, if not better, than the last! 

Two out of the four Michelin star restaurants are located on The Shore (The Heron and Restaurant Martin Whishart). But even if it isn’t a Michelin star restaurant you’re getting a delicious gastronomical experience on The Shore either way!

There’s no doubt you’ll leave satisfied with your meal at any one of these.

The Truth About The Shore

Although you get really good food on The Shore… that’s pretty much all you get!

If you’re someone that enjoys eating at Michelin star restaurants, then by all means, come to The Shore.

But if you’re like me, and would prefer delicious food with more local and casual vibes and a bit more nightlife – stay as far away as possible.

First off, you can’t simply arrive to the Shore, walk in to the first restaurant, and expect to be seated. Almost every restaurant on the Shore you needed to make a reservation in advance.

If you don’t have a reservation, we were able to eat at The Granary and weren’t disappointed at all!

Second, the Shore only has restaurants.

It’s not a street where you can enjoy a meal and then walk it off with some light window shopping afterwards.

Because of that, the area feels pretty deserted. There are people in every restaurant but the streets are EMPTY! It’s actually kind of creepy.

Enjoy Coffee/ Tea Along The Shore

If you aren’t able to get a reservation or would prefer to see Leith during the day (which I recommend over going at night), you can also visit in the afternoon for coffee or tea. 

Enjoy a hot cup of coffee at TOAST or some afternoon tea at Mimi’s Bakery.

Art & Culture In Leith

Leith is home to the art school in Edinburgh, so it’s described as a very artistic area.

In fact, there are a few museums you can visit. By few, I mean three… Plus, they’re all quite small and won’t take you very long to walk through. So don’t get your hopes up too much if you’re an art fan!

Art Gallery At The Custom House

The Custom House is open everyday, and you can visit their free (but very small) art exhibit. 

The work on display is mainly from the art students, but you can even buy some of the artwork if you see something you like!

Learn About Tartan Heritage at Kinloch Anderson

Kinloch Anderson is a tartan house that actually supplies the royal family, and created the official Irn Brü tartan (Scotland’s national drink)!

The Kinloch Anderson warehouse is a 5 minute walk from the Shore and has a free museum at the back of the store (and was one of my favourites!).

They give you a little history on tartan in Scotland, and tell you how it’s made. You can even buy some tartan to bring home!

But, again, the museum is quite small so it won’t take you very long to walk through…

P.S. Check out all things tartan at the Heritage of Scotland

Trinity House Maritime Museum of Leith

When they’re open, you can explore their museum filled different treasures that shed light on Leith’s maritime history. 

If you are interested in visiting this museum, good luck!

They used to only be open 3 hours every week – yup, you read that correctly. 3 Hours… PER WEEK! Now, the Trinity House is only open for events.

Needless to say, we did not have a chance to visit this Edinburgh gem!

Walking Along The Water Of Leith Walkway

The Water of Leith Walkway is exactly what it sounds like. It’s a stream of water that flows through Edinburgh all the way to Leith. 

You can walk along the stream starting in Dean Village, taking you through Stockbridge, before finally ending up in Leith! 

The Truth About the Leith Walkway Edinburgh

The Water of Leith Walkway is a beautiful place for a stroll, but only along certain parts… 

From Dean Village to Stockbridge, the walkway is unbeatable. You follow the stream along a wide path surrounded by nature (p.s. you should also check out Stockbridge for a coffee or the Sunday market!).

But once you start getting closer to Leith, the quality declines…

The path becomes more narrow, and you’re walking next to construction sites and warehouses. It starts to become less about the nature and more about the graffiti on the walls.

The walkway is also somewhat difficult to follow the entire way to Leith. The path brings you back to the main road and sometimes it’s hard to find where it continues.

Also, just a heads up, if you do walk along the Water of Leith Walkway, there are four terrifying statues set up in the water as part of an art exhibit. They really scared me when I first saw them unexpectedly.

Walk On The Leith Walk Instead (A900)

Instead of walking along the Water of Leith Walkway on your own, book a guided tour on Viator. This way, you can visit only the highlights of the walkway (like Dean Village!).

But if you want a way to walk from Edinburgh to the Shore, walk along the Leith Walk instead.

In my opinion, this is the only part of Leith worth visiting. The Leith Walk is one of the longest streets in Edinburgh, it connects the port to the city centre. 

It’s actually a bustling area (unlike the Shore), filled with vintage shops and cafes to explore. 

Plus, because it’s so close to the city centre you can head there for a few hours to explore.

How To Get To Leith From Edinburgh City Centre

The best part about Leith Edinburgh is how accessible it is from the city centre. It makes an easy escape if you want a change of scenery for a day.

You can reach Leith by car, Uber or taxi, take the bus, or even walk there from Edinburgh. 

There are two bus lines that will take you there, the 33 or 35. Depending on where you’re coming from, the bus ride can take around 45 minutes.

If you’d rather walk, as I mentioned, I’d avoid the Water of Leith Walkway (save that for a visit to Dean Village), and walk along the Leith Walk instead.

Need A Place To Stay In Edinburgh? Hotel Recommendations

I stayed at an Airbnb for a month in Edinburgh just across from The Meadows. For shorter stays, I found these accommodations to stay at for every type of traveller.

Best Location & Price: Just down the street from the Royal Mile Motel One Edinburgh – Royal is a short walk to all the main attractions. See room rates & availability.

Modern & New Apartment: Stay in Edinburgh’s New Town at Golden Thistle Apartment to live like a local. It’s offers a beautifully renovated modern apartment with cafes and bars at your fingertips! See room rates & availability on Plum Guide.

Luxury: The Balmoral Hotel is Edinburgh’s finest hotel but nothing compares to it. J.K. even stayed here to finish writing the Harry Potter Series. Maybe you’ll get lucky and stay in the same suite! See room rates & availability.

See other accommodations on Booking.com in Edinburgh, or more apartments on Plum Guide.

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Last update on 2024-05-15 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API